Stetind is one of the greatest climb you can do in Norway. Stetind in Nordland is Norway’s national mountain. A guided trip to Stetind is within reach also without climbing experience. Join us for a guided trip to Stetind!? You need to be fit and have a good head for heights.
Stetind is a classic Norwegian peak nearly 1400 metres above sea-level. No wonder why Stetind in 2002 was voted to be Norway’s national mountain. Stetind is described as a perfect obelisk in pure granite with sweeping ridges rising straight from the fjord.
Stetind is well known among mountain climbers, and has been so for a long time. The top of the peak looks as if it has been formed by four blows of an axe, three vertical and one crosswise. For ages it has been a landmark (also among fishermen in Lofoten) which, well visible from far off, rises high above other nearby peaks.
William C. Slingsby, the British father of Norwegian mountaineering said about Stetind; “The ugliest mountain I ever saw”. Perhaps this had something to do with his failure at achieveing the summit. Stetind was first ascended in 1910. Stetind is 1392 m high and of natural reasons one of the most famous and celebrated mountains in Norway. Its shape is like a giant needle. See it and you’ll never forget it. The peak is a “world in itself”, formed by screes and steep, smooth and slippery slopes of naked rock.
Climbing the normal route to Stetind Our guided tour to Stetind follows the `normal route` which is the easiest way up, traversing the ridge from the foretop (Halls foretop) to the top of Stetind. The tour to Stetind starts with a good trail through a wonderful birch-forest. At 400 m above the sea terrain gets rougher; filled with boulders and sparcely vegetation.
When reaching the Halls foretop we will take a rest, rope up and give you a brief introduction to climbing. Here we will also be exposed to the 750m ridge of serious exposure above 800m granite slabs just a few degrees off vertical, on both sides.
Mysosten block – the crux of the route The main crux of the route is the Mysosten block barely three or four metres in length but quite difficult. The technique is to “hand traverse” a vertical crack in a ledge that rises diagonally. If you need help here; we will do everything necessary to make you do it. None of our clients have failed here, but it has been some blood and tears.
Your feet have nothing more than a smooth 80 degree rock face for friction and the ledge can’t be walked because of an overhang immediately above. After a while you are able to swing a leg up onto the ledge and then crawl along it. All of this is right above a yawning 800m drop beneath you. Going back Mysosten block requires an abseil on the return route. If you have not done abseiling before, this is a scary place to start! Only 30m of abseiling, above an 800m slope of pure granite. We are controlling your moves also here, and trust the ropes, they can hold a load of 3000 kgs. Enjoy it!
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Hard and demanding. Stetind is a hard trip. You need to be physically fit and with a good head for heights to enjoy this trip. A guided climbing tour to Stetind involves steep uphill walking for 3 - 4 hours to reach the Halls foretop (Stetinds foretop). The walk down is tough for the legs and knees, we reccomend to use walking poles. You do not need any climbing experiences, our guides will show you what to do, they will be there with you every step on your way to the summit.
One guide can handle 3 – 4 people.Climbing Stetind is a `once in a lifetime experience` that deserves not beeing in a crowd (anyway that is unusual in Northern Norway…).
A guided climbing trip to Stetind from Bodo could be done during a a long day, but we do reccomend to stay one night in Tysfjord before the climbing. The trip itself (after leaving the car) normally lasts 12 hours.
For obvious reasons (we are above the arctic circle) best season for climbing in Northern Norway is summer. Guided climbing tours to Stetind are done on demand. The `normal route` at Stetind is snow free by mid June. Climbing season ends in September. The entire months of June and July have midnight sun.
Weather Cancellation Policy
A guided tour to Stetind is not reccomended in wet conditions. Climbing is easier on dry rock, and more important; to enjoy the outrageous view from the top.
- Where is Stetind located?
Stetind is located in Tysfjord in Northern Norway, beetween the cities of Bodo and Narvik.
- Please bring
Bring your own hiking boots and personal clothing; we need to be prepared for both wind and rain, even gloves and a cap could be useful. A day pack (min 30 l) is useful, snacks for a long day. Water will be found on our way to the foretop. Be sure to bring your camera.
We will provide you with all necessary climbing Equipment.
- Our guides and languages
We only use experienced guides to lead the trip to Stetind. All our guides speaks quite good english.
We do reccomend you to stay one night in Kjøpsvik before the climbing. Our best advice is Stetind Hotell; + 47 75 77 41 00 www.stetind-hotell.no.
- More info about Stetind
www.stetind.nu (only in Norwegian, but lots of pictures!)
westcoastpeaks.com (good route-description)
- How to get to Stetind?
Transportion is not included. If you plan to go there on your own (and we meet you in Kjøpsvik in Tysfjord); there are good bus-connections between Bodo and Narvik; http://www.nor-way.no/
For ferry-boats across the fjord (Tysfjord) either from Drag to Kjøpsvik or Bognes to Skarberget; http://www.ovds.no/